If you’re looking to go on the best Albanian road trip, you need to check out this relatively undiscovered scenic drive in the north.
Many claim that driving along the Albanian Riviera in the south is the most beautiful Albania road trip and I used to agree!
Seeing things like Butrint national park, the Blue Eye, and Llogara national park on the Albanian Riviera are amazing. But these are always recommended by those who haven’t spent much time in Albania.
I’ve been living in Albania for two years and after going on this incredible north Albanian road trip, I think my mind is forever changed.
If you’re looking for inspiration for your road trip in Albania, you should seriously consider this underrated place!
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The Best Undiscovered Albanian Road Trip
Okay, enough is enough – I’ll let you in on the secret. The best place for an Albanian road trip is in the region known as Malesia e Madhe which is roughly translated to Great Highlands in English.
This area has some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, plus there is a unique cultural aspect.
Because of its natural geographical barriers, Malesia e Madhe is where many Albanians fled, to escape the Ottoman invasion and rule.
Is Shkoder Safe? Here's what you need to know!
This helped preserve traditional Albanian culture for future generations and allowed people to continue freely practicing their religion. If you decide to drive the SH20 road on your Albanian road trip, you will see what I mean.
It is a very remote part of Albania, and without that road, it would be difficult to access, which makes sense why the Ottomans were kept out.
Hopefully knowing this will give you more perspective about the struggles Albanians have faced. I found it hard to imagine what life was like back then for those brave people who resisted.
5 Tips For Your Albanian Road Trip
Since there isn’t much information about this road trip in Albania, I figured that there are important things to know before setting off.
Since Malesia e Madhe is pretty out of the way, it is essential to be prepared before going. Here are some good tips to know for having the best Albanian road trip!
1. Things To Do Along SH20
Since this area of Albania is remote, don’t expect man-made tourist attractions. There aren’t any museums to visit – the main draw to driving on this specific Albanian road trip is for natural beauty and outdoor activities.
Viewpoints
There are plenty of beautiful viewpoints to stop at and take photos. This also provides a nice breather from driving as well. Since the roads can be a bit crazy, it’s good to stop and rest for a few minutes.
Swimming
The road goes along Lumi i Cemi (Cemi River) so if it is a hot day, it would be super refreshing to stop. Depending on rainfall and weather, the river often has this gorgeous blue/green color.
Like most rivers in the Albanian mountains, it will be very cold so it might not be enjoyable for everyone to swim in.
I grew up with cold mountain streams so it’s not as difficult for me but I understand others wouldn’t be used to it. Test it out first by just submerging your feet.
Have a picnic
It’s a bit sparse on SH20 until you to the small village of Tamare. There are some places to stop and eat, most connected to guesthouses for visitors.
Alternatively, you can bring your food to have a picnic wherever you find a good spot to enjoy.
Just remember to take any trash or containers back with you, to not contribute further to the trash pollution issue that’s prevalent in all of Albania.
Hiking
The scenery in Malesia e Madhe is breathtaking and extremely wild. It’s amazing to explore, but imperative that you do so safely.
Many people use local guides that know the terrain and paths. If you do decide to go by yourself, make sure someone knows where you are, especially if you’re alone.
I’d recommend using a hiking all like AllTrails for guidance, and to have a backup power source as well. Also, weather can be extreme and change quickly, check with locals on weather conditions before going.
Though I’m not trying to scare you, you need to know that people die in these mountains for not taking them (and the weather) seriously.
Just recently French and Belgian tourists died in the nearby area of Valbona. Unfortunately, the Albanian rescue services often have to risk their own lives to help too.
So please be careful, your actions affect more than just yourself.
PSsst don't forget to cover yourself with travel insurance, my favorite is SafetyWing ✔️
Waterfalls
There are some gorgeous waterfalls to check out on your Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe. Many won’t be marked on google maps, so you’ll probably happen upon some as you explore.
There are a few marked though:
- Ujëvara e Selcës
- Ujevara e Lepushës
- Ujëvara e Gjanve (near Vermosh)
- Ujevara e Bashkimit (near Vermosh)
Ujëvara means waterfall, so look for signs that have that word.
It also depends on when you’re visiting. If you’re there during the height of summer or directly after (July, August, September), the waterfalls will be pretty dry. Spring is the best time for them.
2. How Long Will It Take
From the city center of Shkoder to the end of SH20 in the mountain village of Vermosh, is said to be a two-hour drive of about 96km.
If you’re coming from Podgorica, it is listed as the same time, but 87km, plus there is a border crossing which will add time.
Coming from the city center of Tirana, it is 3 hours 40 mins and 200km, though the road from Tirana to Shkoder is known to have a lot of traffic, especially in the summer, so it might be longer.
These are just the estimates from google maps. In reality, even without traffic and border crossings, this drive will take you longer as it’s going over some steep mountains.
You can expect many hairpin turns from the mountain passes, as well as winding roads even when you’re driving in the valley along the Cemi River.
Plus if you factor in stopping at viewpoints, swimming, hiking, a picnic, etc., it will be much longer.
It is possible to do this as a day trip from Shkoder, as long as you don’t mind lots of driving.
I wouldn’t recommend doing it as a day trip from Tirana or Podgorica though with traffic and the border crossings could take a while (they don’t always).
Instead of trying to smush it all into one day, I’d recommend you stay overnight to take your time and enjoy Malesia e Madhe.
3. Where To Stay In Malesia e Madhe
Northern Albania is known for its traditions and hospitality, and you can see that with the number of guesthouses you’ll find.
When visiting the mountains, it’s the main type of accommodation. Of course, there are some fancy places, like this luxury resort in Boge. It’s located on the road to Theth and it’s perfect if you want to treat yourself or have a romantic weekend.
Though visiting Malesia e Madhe isn’t promoted a lot on international travel mediums, it doesn’t mean that it isn’t popular.
Albanians love to visit this area, especially ones that have emigrated away but come back every year for a summer holiday.
If you’re visiting from the middle of July to early September, you will need to arrange accommodation before. Here are some different options for you – I’ve arranged them by village.
Many guesthouses might only have 1-2 rooms so I’ve listed a few for each place so you can check on availability.
Tamare
Tamare is a place that has more of a small village vibe, with many guesthouses grouped close together.
Selce
Selce as a village is more spread out, so it feels a little more remote. It also doesn’t have as many options for accommodation, but it’s great if you’re looking for peace and quiet.
- Stay in a triangle-shaped cabin or the Turi-Selce guesthouse
Lepushe
Lepushe is the 2nd to last village you reach on SH20 before getting to the border with Montenegro. It’s known as the pearl of the Albanian Alps.
Though many people rush to Theth Village since it’s been promoted heavily, Lepushe is a really beautiful destination that is a great alternative.
- Guesthouse Alpini (they also have fancier private villas here that are perfect for a romantic weekend)
- Bujtina Tradicionale or Hotel Kelmendi – though it’s located off on a smaller road that might not be as accessible, talk with the host before booking
Vermosh
Vermosh is the last village you can reach on SH20 before the border with Montenegro. It’s another super area with lots of hiking and waterfalls to see.
- Peraj Guesthouse or Hotel Vermoshi TDC
- Columbus Villas (probably the most luxurious place to stay in this region, great for a romantic getaway)
4. Where To Rent A Car
If you’re planning to start this road trip from Shkoder, it’s important to know how to get a rental car. Check out my full guide on day trips from Shkoder!
I have gone around and talked with many of the places that rent cars in Shkoder city center. You’ll recognize them because they have signs that say makina me qera which means car for rent.
What most quote you will be 25 euro per day for manual and 35 euro per day for automatic (it will be much higher in July and August).
This is without insurance though. When you ask about insurance, prices that they tell you (or make up on the spot) will vary.
One place that seemed more honest told me that none of these small places can offer you insurance, they just say there is insurance but there really isn’t any.
The only success I seemed to find was at GoRent Albania – Shkoder location. Since they are a branch of a larger company, it seems like they offer legitimate insurance.
The only thing not covered is the bottom of the car, which they tell you upfront about. You can also use a credit card to do the deposit (or 300 euro in cash) and you can pay by card as well.
Unfortunately, since it is a small branch, they might not have any cars available in the height of summer. You can contact them in advance though to reserve.
Since they are the only company in Shkoder I feel comfortable recommending, if they don’t have cars, I’d say to just rent from Tirana airport.
There are bigger companies that will have plenty of availability and legitimate insurance coverage.
5. More Important Things To Know For Your Albania Road Trip
Doing an Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe will undoubtedly be beautiful and fun, but there are important things to know.
Earlier in the hiking section I touched on how remote the area is, and how important safety is while hiking. Beyond that, there is still a need to be cautious.
Fuel Availability
Since it is very remote, there are no gas (petrol) stations after you turn off the larger E762 road onto SH20.
You need to make sure to have a full tank of gas, especially if you plan on going all the way to Vermosh or if you are staying in the area for a few days.
Check how much your tank holds, as some can be quite small. You might need to take some reserve fuel.
Food Availability
The same warning goes for food. Guest houses usually provide food along with the lodgings, especially breakfast.
For some, meals might not be included so you will have to pay extra, or purchase food there, but don’t expect a big supply since it is remote.
To be safe, I’d suggest bringing along some snacks at least. If you’re strict on being a vegetarian or vegan, I’d say to bring food supplies as mountain food usually includes meat and dairy products (even indirectly like broth for soup).
Cash / ATMs
Albania is largely a cash society, even in bigger cities. You can expect to pay everything in cash in this region. If there aren’t gas stations, that should tell you how remote it is, so don’t expect card machines.
You should be able to pay in both Euro and Albanian Lek, but it will be easier to purchase small items with LEK like coffee and food.
If you use a large 50 euro bill to pay for coffee, you might not get the best exchange rate from the waiter. Paying for larger things like your accommodation is good to pay in euro (if you prefer).
Either way, make sure to visit an ATM in Shkoder or Tirana to withdraw enough money for fuel, food, and accommodation. Use the yellow and blue ATMs (Credins Bank) for free cash withdrawals in Albania.
Easier Albanian Road Trip Alternatives
Though I’d highly recommend doing an Albanian road trip, especially this specific one I’m suggesting, I know it might not suit everyone.
If you don’t feel comfortable driving or maybe you don’t want to go through the hassle of arranging a rental car, here are some alternative tours.
Hopefully, these can still give you a nice taste of what this region holds.
- From Tirana: 3-Day Trip Koman Lake, Valbona, and Theth Hiking Tour
- From Tirana: Valbona Park, Koman Lake and Prizren city, Kosovo
- From Shkodër: Day Trip to Bogë and Theth National Park
- From Shkoder: 2-Day Trip to Theth with Accommodation
Best Albanian Road Trip – Final Thoughts
I hope all of these tips for your Albanian road trip have helped inspire you. There’s so much to see in northern Albania, many of which aren’t talked about on regular travel blogs.
If you’re looking to have a super unique Albania road trip, then driving along SH20 in Malesia e Madhe will be great!
Need more inspiration? Check out these awesome 10 day Albania intineraries!